Tombs

Traditionally, the Tandroy believe that this life is a relatively short bridge to a long afterlife. Therefore, houses are temporary and rough, while tombs are sturdy and elaborate. In addition, the Tandroy spend very little on daily expenses, eating only cassava or sweet potatoes with curdled milk and dressing in rags. Meanwhile, they invest almost all of the money they make from selling crops in cattle. When someone dies, his or her family sells some of the cattle to pay to construct the tomb, slaughters some of the cattle to accompany the deceased to the next life, and takes the house apart to move elsewhere.

This airplane tomb is particularly impressive. The man buried here may have flown or ridden in an airplane, but more likely it was chosen as a symbol of power and wealth.

I got in trouble for these photos. My friends had told me that it’s okay to take pictures of tombs, but in hindsight I should have asked for permission first. As I was snapping away, I heard some yelling from a distance. Some of the relatives had spotted me and were upset at the desecration. I apologized profusely, but they weren’t satisfied, and took me to the family compound for judgment. My Malagasy co-workers saw the trouble brewing and came along to help.

The oldest family member, a grandmother, presided. One of the men who had caught me presented the case. I apologized again, saying I just wanted to be able to teach my family back home about Tandroy culture. My co-workers spoke in my defense. Finally, the grandmother said I had caused them hardship, but I apparently meant no harm, so I could make things right again by paying a fine of 2000 Ariary (about $1). After I paid, we all shook hands and they sent me on my way on friendly terms. It seemed to me an efficient, reasonable judiciary system.